Surfing is my liquid Valium. I learned to surf when I was 4 years old, on the harbour side of Manly Beach, waiting for the waves from the ferry to rock my board and test my balance. By the age of 5 I was paddling out the back unassisted at Manly, navigating my way in the male dominated lineup, finding my allies and friends. Every wave is a blank canvas for self expression to dance to the rhythm of the ocean. For me, Surfing is the ultimate act of surrender; surrendering control to a force powerf